Emmalicious in Australia

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Name: Emma Katz

Thursday, April 19, 2007

Goodbye/Hello

This is it- in less than 24 hours I'll be on a plane out of Australia. This is my 50th post, out of 100 days in the country, which isn't too bad I think.

I've spent these last few days seeing Sydney, since I missed it the first time around. I took a ferry to the beach suburb of Manly and got lots of great photos of the Opera House. I've sat in parks and read books, I've gone to the movies every night I've been here (saw Priceless, The Namesake, and Becoming Jane- all movies that I know C.J. wouldn't be annoyed at me for seeing without him!). I've also bought my last souvenir. I think I finally have something for everyone. I also did my laundry and have almost finished packing my bags. I almost can't believe that I'm going.

I have a feeling that once I get home this whole trip will seem like a strange dream, an interruption in the course of my life- and since no one has completely shared it with me, in a way it will be easy for it to fade out and be forgotten. To combat this, I'm already trying my hardest to keep in touch with the friends I've made. And of course, I'll be reliving the whole trip in photos- I have hundreds, maybe thousands, to show anyone who dares to come visit me in NY! I'm really looking forward to seeing familar faces again. So goodbye to the blog and hello to everyone very soon!

Love,
Emma

Sunday, April 15, 2007

Nimbin

Today I visited the marijuana capital of Australia- the very bizarre town of Nimbin, about an hour inland of Byron Bay. I took a bus tour there, which was famous for its soundtrack, especially selected to put you in the mood for whatever you are doing- starting the day with Sublime ("early in the morning, rising to the street"), doing a uturn with Tracy Chapman ("give me one reason to stay here and i'll turn right back around"), and going down a crazy hill with some crazy Pink Floyd. It was a very interesting and unique experience, although not one that I would want to repeat. Since I'm not into doing drugs, especially not by myself, I was just going to Nimbin as an observer. This was not that case for most of the other people on the bus- which I guess I should have expected. But seeing this town might have been worth putting up with the people. Its like someone forgot to tell the whole town that the 60s are over. Actually, I'm not even convinced that the 60s were like this. Maybe the 60s in San Francisco, but all concentrated on the one main street of a small country town. There are people of all ages looking dressed for woodstock, coming up to you and asking if you want to buy weed or cookies. There's the legalize marijuana campaign established in a storefront called The HEMP Embassy. There's the Nimbin Museum which is basically a collection of junk scattered around three rooms of a store, and leading you to the patio outback where you can buy your "souvenirs". It is so odd! And actually, being my lame self, it made me a bit uncomfortable.

After Nimbin we had a possibly even weirder stop at the rainforest preserve home of the tour guide's friend. The friend is a guy- from Long Island!!!- who came to Australia escaping the Vietnam draft and basically hasn't been back since. He also didn't seem to have washed, cut his hair, or changed his clothes since. And he was wearing nail polish. Not that thats a bad thing, but if I saw this guy on the street in any city I would think he was homeless. Actually, he owns numerous acres of rainforest preserve. What he did when he got to Australia was to start replanting the original trees and plants that had grown on the land before colonists cleared in for cattle in the 1800s. He's done an amazing job, and we got to walk around part of his property and see lots of cool looking plants as well as the random action figures and sculptures that he's placed in the trees. He also has a bunch of different buildings around the property- I guess one is his house, and one we got to hang out in was a kind of boathouse type building overlooking a pond. He called the place his "hippie estate". It was pretty sweet to see how happy he was there, living his own way on his own land, even if I would have recommended a few more showers per week.

I got back to town in the early evening, showered, had a really good dinner of king prawns (aka large shrimp) and am now posting before I go back to my room to pack up. Tomorrow morning I make my last move back to Sydney. I have to spend the whole day on the bus, so I won't be posting tomorrow, but please keep reading and send me some comments before the blog is over forever.

Oh- and one last thing. Last night after I posted I went out for drinks with Tanja again. As we were sitting and talking, the most amazing thing happened- I looked over at the table next to us and saw the Irish couple (Caroline and Andy) who I had travelled with on the Easyrider bus in WA!!! I could not believe it! It was so nice to catch up with them after 2.5 months- and so totally unexpected too. It just made me feel really good about my trip and meeting people and all that. I guess it is a small world, even in massive Australia!

Next post from Sydney!

Love,
Emma

Friday, April 13, 2007

Byron Bay

After my awful time in Brisbane, Byron Bay has been a lifesaver. I arrived here yesterday and had enough time before sunset to take a lovely walk on the beach and explore the town a little bit. I think it has a similar size and atmosphere to Bar Harbor- a holiday town with lots of places to eat and shop. The difference is that here there are backpackers everywhere! This is very good because there are tons of services for us- travel agents, tours, cheap meals, cheap internet, etc. Plus the weather is fantastic. Today I thought about going on a 2 hour walk to the Cape Byron Lighthouse, and then decided to sit on the beach instead. The beach is about two minutes from my hostel and it is one of the best beaches that I've been to in Australia. It actually has waves (unlike Cottesloe or even Rottnest Island in WA). In fact, the conditions were like one of those rare perfect days on Fire Island when there's a sandbar you can easily walk to. I first went down to the beach just planning to swim and read, but I saw so many people boogie boarding and I knew that it was the absolute perfect conditions for it. So I went back to the hostel and borrowed one for free (one of those nice services they offer). I also couldn't help noticing that it was perfect conditions for skimboarding, and yet it was a total waste because no one was doing it! I guess that sport hasn't made its way over here, although I'm pretty sure I saw some boards in the surf shops. But a message for Dad- you need to bring skimboarding to Australia! They're really missing out.

After many hours in and out of the water I went into town, did a little shopping, and had a nice healthy vegetarian lunch. This town is very hippie/new age oriented resulting in lots of stores selling insence and sarongs and also lots of gf/vegan/veggie eateries. I'm hoping to meet up with a girl from my dorm tonight- her name is Tanja and she's Swiss- we went out for a drink last night and we might be meeting other friends of hers tonight. So things are going well, although I'm still looking forward to the end of the week!

Love,
Emma

Wednesday, April 11, 2007

Uluru

As promised, here I am posting from Brisbane, where the internet is a reasonable $4 per hour. I've completely wasted my time in this city. I arrived last night and tried to check into my hostel only to find that they didn't have my booking and the only bed they had left was in a room with 7 guys who were sitting around smoking weed. I was already feel a bit weary when I got there and this pretty much pushed me over the edge. After some panicking I ended up at the hotel next door. Then I was supposed to wake up this morning to take a little cruise down the river to a koala sanctuary, but instead I turned off my alarm and slept for 12 hours- till 1am. Now I'm finally up and out, but I still don't seem to have any energy to do anything. I'm leaving for Byron Bay tomorrow and I just can't be bothered to walk around another strange city.

However, before this catastrophe I was having an incredible time in the Red Centre. I'd been warned that some people find the place boring- you go, see the rock, and that's about it. But this was not my experience at all. I just could not believe how beautiful the desert was. There was actually a lot of plants around, even wildflowers, due to some rain they had two weeks ago. And because the dirt/sand is so so red, the green looks amazing in contrast, and even the blue sky and the white clouds seem to stand out more against this bright red. And of course Uluru at sunrise and sunset was brilliant. Right when the sun hits the horizon it makes the rock glow this amazing orange/red color. It was just incredibly gorgeous- and the best thing is that its beautiful in a way that you can't see anywhere else. Its such a unique beauty, and I'm really really glad I made it there to see it.

I kept pretty busy at Uluru (probably why I had to sleep for 12 hours last night). I arrived on Monday afternoon and went on a sunset camel tour that evening. The set up was that all these camels were roped together and two people sat on each camel. Since I was alone I got paired with a grumpy 13 year old boy whose parents and two little sisters were paired up on the camels behind us. Our camel's name was Di, as in Diane. The camels all started out sitting down and then once we were all seated the trainers gave them the signal to stand, which is when you have to hold on really tight while you are rocked back and forth by the camel. Then we did a short walk to a lookout where you could see Uluru and we stopped to take some photos. When we stopped, the guide/trainer guy told us not to worry about the camel's spitting on us- they don't spit on you, they just vomit on you, were his words. Evidently camels have multiple stomachs and regurgitate their food, and if they get really annoyed at you bad things happen with this food. So when Bendigo, the camel behind me, (which was very close, often nuzzling my side and getting very friendly), started to make these repulsive chewing noises, I started to get a little worried. Thankfully nothing happened, and the guys on the camel in front of me took some good photos of me trying to smile while being nudged by Bendigo. I was a little sore when I got off the camel- I can't imagine riding it for days on end, but it was a fun new experience.

Later that same night I went to the Night Sky Show at the "Ayers Rock Observatory" and got to see saturn, jupiter, sirius, and various other things through the telescope. I also had scorpio pointed out to me- which I studied very hard so that I could spot it again on my own. And the guide pointed out an aborigional constellation- which wasn't really a constellation, but an absence of stars, a huge dark area of the sky which forms a giant emu. As soon as he pointed it out (with this awesome laser pointer thingie) it jumped right out at us and was so clear that it seemed crazy that none of us had ever noticed it before. The guide also told us some interesting stories about how a bunch of different cultures (from the Greeks to the Aborigionals) have looked at the seven sisters constellation and all independantly decided that they represented seven women and no one knows why. And also about a tribe in Mali who believe that their god comes from the second star in the Sirius pair... which is a real mystery because the second star is a white dwarf and scientists didn't even know it was there until the 1970s. I haven't been able to verify these stories myself, so I'm not sure if everything the guide was saying was accurate, but it was pretty interesting.

On to Tuesday. I decided not to wake up for sunrise, and instead got a bus to Uluru at 9am, walked a little ways around the base and went to the Aborigional culture centre to read about the creation myths of Uluru and buy some souvenirs. Then I got a bus back to the hotel and had a short break before heading out again to Kata Tjuta, the second major rock formation in the Uluru/Kata Tjuta National Park. Uluru is one big rock, but Kata Tjuta (or the Olgas as they used to be called) is a series of huge domes spread over a much larger area than Uluru. There's one walk through the domes, called the Valley of the Winds, which had been recommended by Andrew as the best walk in the park. Its supposed to take about 3 hours, and is rated "difficult" which I didn't really stop to think about until I got out there. I wasn't sure what would be difficult about it, because I was pretty sure the track didn't climb up any of the domes, and heights are usually what I associate with a hike being difficult. I decided that I'd just turn around if I got to a place that looked scary, and I had my hat, sunscreen, sunglasses, lots of water, and a fly net (I forgot to mention, the one drawback of the desert is that there are flys everywhere and they will not leave you alone- you really need a fly net to keep them off your face and then you need to practice ignoring them on the rest of your body). So, I thought I was pretty well prepared.

The Valley of the Winds walk is a circuit that takes you to two look out points. The first lookout is up a small hill that isn't very far from the parking lot and just looks out across where you are going to be hiking. Then you walk down the other side of the hill toward the valley, where the trail splits and you head counterclockwise on the loop into the valley. Being in the valley, between all these crazy domes, was the best part of the track. There was even a place where the rain had collected from two weeks ago, like a little oasis with flowers growing around it and a goana (lizard) sipping water from the little pond. The other nice thing about the valley is that its all in the shade. I stopped here for a while, really enjoying the lanscape and taking tons of photos. After walking through this valley for a bit, you then go uphill again to the second lookout, which is through a small gap in the domes. You can look backwards into the valley and in front of you to the desert below, where even more domes are spread out. Once I got to this point I thought, okay the second of two lookouts, that must mean its all downhill from here. Nothing had been at all scary so far, so I thought I was doing well. I went down from the lookout and out of the valley. That's when things got rough. The rest of the track takes you around the outside of the domes that you had previously been walking through. It doesn't climb very high but it does go up and down a bit. The landscape is beautiful, but since you are out in the desert now there is no shade. I started to get pretty hot and tired, and about 5 minutes away from the next place to refill your water bottle, I ran out of water while going uphill. I got to the water station feeling a little woosy, so I stayed there in for a bit on a bench in the shade, refilled my water, and prepared to move on. I had to walk up to the first lookout again in order to get back to the parking lot on the other side so I took it slow and did it without any trouble. When I got there I saw a huge Japanese tour group. At one point, one of them pointed out a little red lizard sitting on a red rock right at the side of the trail, I couldn't believe that he had seen it and I said so to the non-Japanese looking woman who was guiding there tour. She said that she had pointed one out to her the group earlier and now they were scanning the path for them. We chated the rest of the way down, which was good because it distracted me from being exhausted. I got back to the bus where my bus driver had another surprise- he had picked up an amazing lizard called the Thorny Devil which I'd seen on many postcards and was dying to see in person. It was so cool! I got to take pictures which I will post soon. Then the bus had to pick up some more people and we all went out to see the sunset at Uluru. It was a fantastic sight, and doubly fantastic for me because when the sun went down Passover was finished! I celebrated by getting a pizza and a coke and watching The Devil Wears Prada in my hotel room.

My last day at Uluru I got up at 5:15am for a sunrise tour. The sunrise again was fantastic, and afterwards we did a little walk to a watering hole at the base of Uluru where we could see some Aborigional rock art. We stopped at the culture centre again, and then went back to the hotel. My flight left that afternoon, so I just had time to buy a few more souvenirs before I left. Then I flew to Syndey, transfered to Brisbane, and here I am. I almost wish I had ended my trip with Uluru because it was so incredible and so unique- seeing it and doing the Valley of the Winds hike has completely satisfied my desire to experience Australia. Now I feel like I'm just killing time till I get to Hawaii, and more importantly get to see C.J. again. Yes I'm a little homesick, but I've only got a week and a day and then I'm done with travelling alone. I can't wait!

Next post from Byron Bay!

Love,
Emma

Sunday, April 8, 2007

Melbourne Days

Sorry for the long delay in posting- I wasn't able to get to a computer again for a while, so my last days in Melbourne went by unrecorded. Now I'm out in the middle of the desert, at Ayers Rock Resort, with some down time to recount this past week.

I've seen Melbourne very thoroughly by now. On Thursday I went to the Melbourne Museum and walked around the beautiful exhibition centre. I got down to the suburb of Port Melbourne to have dinner with friends of Bob and Sue. They had a really nice place, a view of the beach on one side and the city on the other. And they were super nice about catering to my passover needs. On my way down there by tram I also got a good tour of the city, including the Casino (although I didn't see the famous big fire spurting columns- I guess they weren't on that night). After dinner I went back into the city and hung around with Carolin again- a very social day!

This weekend I took a bunch of trips with Andrew and Norva- and also introduced them to the wonders of matzomeal pancakes and matzo, butter, and salt. On Friday we went down to the Mornington Peninsula to wander through a giant hedge maze, which was very cool. We walked around the gardens, and then went up to a lookout over the bay where we could just barely see Melbourne in the distance. On Saturday, Andrew and I took another trip out to the mining town on Bendigo (Norva prefered to go shopping!). Oddly enough, we discovered a Chinese temple, gardens, and museum which included the worlds oldest and the worlds longest imperial dragon (the kind that parade in the street- specifically ones with five claws). The Chinese influence was from back during the towns gold rush, and although there aren't many Chinese living there now, there were still tons of artifacts. Another reminant of the gold rush times was a massive Catholic cathedral that we saw entering town- neither of us expecting anything like it. It was gorgeous and just so so big you couldn't believe it was out there in the middle of nowhere. When we got back I got a chance to see Carolin one last time- I went to her place and we watched a terrible movie called Boytown. On Sunday I made matzomeal pancakes for breakfast and then A&N took me row boating in one of their favorite parks in Melbourne. Norva was a pro- while my arms are still a bit sore. Throughout this weekend we also watched a lot of Deadwood (the HBO series) and now I can't wait to watch more when I get home.

So that is a very very abridged version of the past week. Internet is super expensive here and I'm running out of time and change, so I better go. I'm booked up with tours of The Rock for the next two days, so I'll probably catch up in Brisbane which is my next stop.

Love,
Emma

Tuesday, April 3, 2007

Green Passover

Since last writing I've been occupied primarily with preparing for and observing Passover. I did my shopping, baked a nut cake and a ton of matzo balls- neither of which came out quite right although they were adequate, and went to the Rothfield family seder. I had heard from Philipa Rothfield, the hostess of the seder and my tenuous connection to the family, that it was going to be a green-themed seder. When I asked what that meant she said, "we're going to talk about how we as a family can reduce our carbon emissions". And that really is what they did. Now, my family is not very religious, but compared to Philipa's family we're practically orthodox. I'd say there was about 15 minutes of seder and about 60 minutes of how we were going to reduce our carbon emissions! Plus, you know you're at a pretty relaxed seder when you look around and realize that you're going to have to avoid most of the desserts- especially the very non-kosher looking brownies! But not to worry, I didn't starve. I had salmon and matzo ball soup and my own nut cake for dessert, and I even got to go home with a free copy of An Inconvenient Truth, the Green Passover party favor. It was certainly an experience, and I was doing alright until I got back home and realized that we hadn't sang any songs. Then I got upset. But even that has been set right now- I called home during both seders and got to sing along via telephone. So now I feel satisfied.

Other than Passover, in the past couple days I bought new sneakers, watched an entire British comedy series called Absolute Power (FANTASTIC! You should all see it), and went to the Australian Center for the Moving Image (ACMI) and saw a great exhibit from the Centre Pompedieu (sp?) in Paris which included an installation about Dog Day Afternoon with video clips from the actual robbery that the movie was based on, and interviews with the actual people involved. Best of all, I met up with my friend Carolin from W.A. She's in Melbourne working for the year and we went out to this really cool bar with her friends from work. Basically we just talked all evening, and she is a very cool person so it was really nice. We're probably going to hang out again tomorrow night, and maybe see Pan's Labyrinth, which I've wanted to see for a while but have avoided because I heard it was too upsetting for me to see alone.

So, overall things are going well. I'll try to get back in the swing of posting daily or at least every other day. I know you are all on the edge of your seats.

Love,
Emma

Sunday, April 1, 2007

KI/GOR PICS!

The companion post...

1. Paul posing with Sunday Roast.


2. Sea lions at the beach on KI.


3. Group Photo on the Remarkable Rocks. I'm the one looking goofy in the white hat.


4. Crazy pelicans being fed by even crazier fisherman!


5. Forgot to mention, we stopped at the Big Lobster on the way to Melbourne. Its actually a big crayfish, but you get the idea.


6. Blowing away at the 12 Apostles, the most famous rocks in water along the Great Ocean Road (and there aren't even 12 of them anymore!).


7. Loch Ard Gorge, site of the infamous cave adventure.


8. My favorite Great Ocean Road roadsign. You wonder, how did you get to the highway in the first place if you haven't figure this out yet...

Kangaroo Island/Great Ocean Road

Rabbit Rabbit!

It has been a long long time since my last post! I'm not even going to recap every day for you because its all melded together a bit.

My last couple days in Adelaide were a lot of fun. I spent one evening working at the theater for almost 8 hours, so I finally really got to know the other people working there (of course on my last shift!). My last night in Adelaide I was supposed to be volunteering but I skipped it in favor of Sunday Roast by Paul. Sunday Roast seems to consist mostly of meat and potatoes, and of course Yorkshire Pudding which I got to try for the first time. I didn't know what it was, so I assume some of you don't either- basically its fried batter. Mmmm... After dinner we played poker (I lost one round and tied for winner of another!). We also simultaneously played a game that Dennis started where you have to name 10 movies that an actor has been in. Sounds easy, well its really really hard! As a group we did Tom Cruise, and we almost got Julie Roberts- but no one else came close. After about 5-7 you really start to struggle. Just try it.

On March 26th I left on a two day tour of Kangaroo Island. KI is off the coast of Adelaide and is largely undeveloped thanks to two farmers in the 1920's who refused to cut down any more trees despite being ordered to by the government. The deforestation was turning the island into a desert, and the farmers eventually had to buy the land after losing their case against the government in court. The funny thing is that in the 1970s their descendents gave all the land back to the government to turn it into a national park- just shows how much priorities have changed. I was travelling with an interesting group: four Catalonian (sp?) firemen, four Austrian med students, one other Austrian guy, a German girl, and an Indonesian girl who took photos of literally everything including the scenery out of the bus window as we drove out of Adelaide toward KI, plus our guide Simon who I ended up talking to a lot after I decided to be social and sit in the front seat. Simon was telling me about various trips he'd taken, most of which involved driving a 4WD out into the most desolate places possible, and he says that he'd like to visit NY just to say he's been there, but he probably never will because the U.S. is basically on the bottom of his list of places to go. And I'm thinking, yeah if your idea of paradise is being 100's of miles from another human being, then you might as well skip NY. He even told me that his 60 year old parents drove from Alice Springs to Broome (go look at that on google maps and you might notice the lack of buildings, roads, or anything but sand!). Well, to each his own...

On KI we stayed at a great little campground. You could either sleep outside or in the "house" where they had some dorms (I considered outside but when the time came I was just too tired to bother). Along the driveway there were trees with koalas sleeping in them, and at night we sat around a big fire and watched wallabys and possums crawl past. Around the fire we also played a hilarious game which I feel compelled to bring home. You get a cardboard box, like from a case of beer, and you have to pick it up with your teeth, without your feet leaving the groung and without any other body part touching the ground. If you pick it up, then you rip off a piece of the box, and so on until people are doing near splits to try and get at the remains of the box. Its a lot of fun, trust me. The tour also provided food- veggie burgers for lunch, and chicken satay with rice for dinner- served from a ginormous pot that made me so homesick for the coop!

While driving around the island we saw tons of wildlife- of course wallabys, possums, and an echidna (Australian hedgehog type thing), penguins, kangaroos, and even a goana (lizard). We went to two different beaches where we saw seals and sea lions. We went to a pelican feeding which was hilarious- and was at least half a seagull feeling as well. The weather wasn't great, but we did stop at a few beaches and I went in the water once. It was sorta like Fire Island in October- warm water and cold windy air. We also got to go sandboarding, or rather sandsledding for me. I didn't attempt standing on a board since I had a premonition of doom about my ankles plus sliding down a sand dune on a board. Instead I sat down on a sled with another girl and went down the hill three times- one time successfully steering at the back, one time unsuccessfully steering and almost crushing the girl in front of me when we both toppled over, and one time sitting in the front and letting the other girl steer. A bit of advice- don't scream as you rocket down a sand dune unless you want the sand dune to relocate to your mouth! Finally, we went to KI's main landmark, The Remarkable Rocks. I have to say that they are the best weird rock formation I've seen so far in Australia (and I've seen quite a few). I think maybe they are the best because you can climb all over them- or maybe I was just there with good people and so enjoyed it more.

On the way back from KI I sat in the front with Simon again. The city is surrounded by the Adelaide hills, and as we came close to the city, he enthusiastically told me to look out at the lights of his city. And I couldn't help thinking that it reminded me an awful lot of coming down the highway into Troy, NY. But I didn't say that to him. We got back to Adelaide around 11pm on Tuesday the 27th and I sat around talking to Paul for a while before going to sleep. In the morning he woke up to say goodbye to me (awww!) as I got on my Great Ocean Road tour and I was actually sad to leave Adelaide! Who would've thought?

So as I said, I got on a tour going down the Great Ocean Road between Adelaide and Melbourne. It was a strange tour- a more diverse crowd then I'd experienced before. The group consisted of two American women and their two 20-something sons, a young British guy, two young Danish girls, a honeymooning Indian couple, an older French Canadian couple, a young Japanese girl, an old Welsh man, myself- and most amazingly a guy named Bill Donahue who went to high school with my parents!!! That's right, all the way in Australia and I bumb into a Bay Shore High School graduate, class of 73. When I said my mom was Susan Barbash, he just made this face like I've never seen- it was like in his mind "Sue" was still a 17 year old hottie that he didn't have a chance with- not someone who could be anyone's mom, certainly not mine! This was partially confirmed for me when he told me later that my mom had been part of the popular crowd (although she would definitely deny that!) and that he was a weird kid who "managed" the football and basketball teams. He said she wouldn't remember him- and I haven't been able to catch her at home to talk to her about it, so mom feel free to comment on this issue online!

Anyhow... the tour... well, the theme of the tour first invented by our hokey guide Dave and later adopted ironically by the rest of us, was "Rocks in Water". Sometimes we saw rocks in water, sometimes stones in water, other times there was water interspersed with a few boulders. Get the idea? It also had finally started to be fall or autumn as they say. It was windy and cold and sometimes wet. So there were almost as many stops for tea, coffee, and chocolate cake as there were stops for rocks in water. We didn't DO that much on the tour, but it wasn't a total waste because we did bond a lot in our boredom. Also having older people around meant that we ate out more often so I didn't have to microwave any dinners. One of the highlights of the trip was staying at the Lakeside Manor YHA in Robe- by far the nicest hostel I have ever seen. It was a former mansion and had high ceilings, woodworking, a gorgeous library, fireplaces, wide hallways, and a single bathroom the size of my bedroom at home. It also had real spring mattresses, unlike the foam beds in Adelaide, which was so so nice after 3 weeks of lousy back support. In general the evenings were the best part of the tour. We'd eat out then go to the local pub and hang out drinking and playing pool.

The only other highlight of the Great Ocean Road tour was Loch Ard Gorge. We got out there and walked down to this incredible beach surrounded by cliffs. In the cliffs are caves, and Dave decided that it would be fun to lead any of us that were stupid enough to go, into a cave under a cliff that was partially out in the ocean. He said, you just have to dodge the waves- first you run from the beach to a rocky outcrop, then you wait till the waves recede and you run from the rocks to the cave. Another thing Dave was fond of saying was, "Trust me, I'm your guide!". As in, "Oh, those rocks are only a 5 minute walk away in the rain. Trust me...!" or "Its totally safe and easy to get to the cave. Trust me...!" Well, this was day 3 and by this time most of us knew that Dave was barely keeping a straight face when he said these things. However, one of the young Americans, the young Brit, the Canadian, and the old Welsh guy all followed Dave into the cave- every single one of the getting various degrees of soaked. The Welsh guy, whose name is Clive and who was pretty short and reminded me so much of Bilbo Baggins in the LotR movies- he got the worst of the trip. Not only did he get the wettest, he lost his shoes, and he banged his head on the rocks and came back bleeding. Back on the bus he said, "There's no fool like an old fool." But they all made it to the cave and back alive. And it was pretty funny to watch.

Whew... well that abridged version pretty much brings me up to date. I got back to Melbourne yesterday and felt very much like I was back "home" or as Andrew said, "your Australian home". Today I went down to Balaclava and bought supplies for Passover. I'm missing a few things, but I think I can do without them. I have matzo butter and salt, so I won't starve! Andrew left this morning for Canberra but will be back on Wednesday or Thursday- and Norva has been shut up in her office preparing her lectures for the week, so I'm pretty much on my own. Oh, and I just realized that I've spend nearly 4 hours on the computer, so I better end this. I'll try to report back on Australian Passover soon! Hopefully I can pull of my Grandma's matzo balls without her guidance!

Love,
Emma